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randogoth.com/content/20121228_beneath-the-747.md

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+Title: beneath the 747
+Category: GONZO
+Date: 2012-12-28 18:31
+Slug: beneath-the-747
+Tags: gonzo, english, speyer
+Thumb: /library/speyer1.jpg
+
+*report about my 36 hours trip to speyer. all names are fictional, all
+actions and observations exaggerated, rude, biased or simply not true.*
+
+it was after a full week of family gatherings, round birthday
+celebrations, the usual social christmas hell, annoyed relatives,
+annoying relatives and other relatively annoying days in my hometown
+that i decided i really needed a break from this atmosphere so i
+wouldn't turn insane or into a serial killer.
+
+egon, a friend of mine whom i had met around a year ago, filmmaker,
+bohemian, bon vivant, almost neighbor in kreuzberg - organises a small
+film festival in the lovely medieval city of
+[speyer](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Speyer) together with old friends
+every year between christmas and new years: the [grande
+filiale](http://kommandohasenpfuhlstrasse.de).<!-- PELICAN_END_SUMMARY -->
+
+i had been there already a year before and remembered good artsy films
+and amazing white wine. i also knew that egon's flatmate neal from
+berlin would be in town, so i decided to pay them a visit in speyer,
+enjoy films and have some drinks.
+
+after a long hot shower and a quick cold walk through the rain i sat in
+the train to speyer - across the imaginary
+[palatine](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rhineland-Palatinate) border of
+the rhine river - through a wet and starless evening.
+
+the arrival in speyer was already strange, because it felt warmer and
+dryer here than home, although it's only 27km away. i walked through the
+old town towards the [famous medieval
+cathedral](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Speyer_Cathedral) - all shops,
+restaurants and the christmas market were closed and the few people on
+the streets were obviously all tourists mumbling european languages and
+staring in awe at the old catholic romanic
+[cathedral](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Speyer_Cathedral) with its
+[kaiser graves](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Speyer_Cathedral#Crypt). a
+gloomy post-christmas vibe was in the air, this hesitant moment between
+the fest feast food mayhem and the melancholic new years anxiety.
+
+![](/library/speyer3.jpg "speyer3")
+
+beyond the cathedral i walked down, past the old museum, along the empty
+and wet motorway feeder road with its lonely traffic lights staring into
+the night until i saw the silhouette of the [boeing 747 clinging to the
+cloudy nightsky](http://speyer.technik-museum.de/en) frozen in
+timespace. the closer i got the clearer i saw that lufthansa jumbo
+looming over the railway bridge - chased by a vintage propeller chase
+rising up vertically in wintery twilight.
+
+right below the frozen 747 - in front of the discarded metal guardian
+aeroplanes of the [technology
+museum](http://speyer.technik-museum.de/en) - i saw the huge
+advertisement billboard of the «casa dom» - desperately waiting for
+prospects for the countless free square meters of desolated old
+furniture showroom space: the venue of this year's «grande filiale».
+
+![](/library/speyer2.jpg "speyer2")
+
+greeted by wildly swarming fireflies of blaze from the burning trash bin
+in front of «casa dom» heralding the post-apocalyptic spirit yet to
+come, i snapped away my cigarette stub and entered the furniture
+showroom.
+
+there they were already - egon and neal - talking with gump at the
+entrance desk. hello, nice to see you, welcome, handshakes, hugs and
+grins were exchanged. egon snickered, gump gave me his typical askant
+glance and neal already had an ominous glassy look in his eyes.
+
+the atmosphere in the venue was quite cozy. selfmade wooden walls all
+around, lit by blurry and warm slide projections, disrupted by
+installation made from old plastic chairs, vinyl records or christmas
+tree lights. across the room grandma's couch furniture, chairs and a
+small platform in front of a huge german landscape painting invited to
+relax, pretty palatine youngsters served beer, coke and schorle at the
+bar - canopied by coloured baloons.
+
+in the next moment i already had number one in my hand. the infamous
+[palatine](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Palatinate_(wine_region))
+schorle. high class traditional white wine spritzed with a spark of
+fizzy water, served in a [half liter tumbler
+glass](http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dubbeglas). sounds innocent? big
+mistake, foreigner!
+
+i sat down in the cinema room to watch davide manuli «[la leggenda di
+kaspar hauser](http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yqkl06CfKD4 "trailer")»
+but unfortunately the organisers had problems with the provided copy of
+the film, so egon switched to plan b: werner herzog's early work «[even
+dwarfs started
+small](http://www.reelz.com/trailer-clips/22777/even-dwarfs-started-small-trailer/)»
+- a disturbing parable shot in black and white about a group of dwarfs
+confined in a spanish finca style institution in a remote deserted
+volcanic southern land who start to rebel against their directors who
+barricade themselves in the house while the rebel dwarfs raise mayhem
+outside, breaking dishes, burning flowers, fight with food and start
+cock fights and crucify a monkey, and destroy a truck.
+
+anxious and disturbed by the brilliant and strange flick i got myself
+two more schorles, smoked cigarettes outside the building, fed the
+burning trashbin with more rotten dry wood and listened to neal who told
+me about the total amnesia he had the night before and the craziness
+about this whole festival. i thought he was exaggerating as usual,
+shrooked and we went back inside where the [psychedelic jazz
+band](http://www.heringcerin.de/bands/) of another old grande filiale
+protagonist - the highly talented drummer and jazz dj with the funny
+nickname of sardine, was expected to begin.
+
+![](/library/speyer1.jpg "speyer1")
+
+the schorles already took their toll as the room got embraced by
+subliminal syncopatic beats, mad guitar sounds and whining whispers. i
+started to feel slightly dizzy from the audiovisual wonderland around me
+and the white wine in my head but found myself dancing in a reptilian
+slow motion way while the world around me diffused into a comforting
+blur.
+
+i am not really sure how much time had passed until the dj took over the
+music, nor do i remember any break or transition between the flying
+carpet jazz of sardine and the electronic rhythms that followed, but it
+didn't matter anymore at this point, because the amount of schorle
+intakes had already doubled and egon, neal and i were engaged in a
+serious dancing contest against and with each other and the shady
+persons around us. occasional flirty exchanges of looks with pretty
+females around me, even moments of wild dancing twirls with others, but
+overall i was already floating in my own bubble inside this psychedelic
+happening that the grande filiale had become long long after midnight.
+
+i am not really able to logically recall the rest of the night since
+it's just a random collection of single images: me taking very long to
+find my money for the next schorle … me laughing with neal trying to
+clearly articulate and communicate with him … me stumbling through the
+nearby petrol station to buy tobacco … sitting outside on a chair
+between rubbish in the cold for some undefined timespan, dozing away …
+darkness … blurs … clouds … waking up standing in the middle of the
+road, sweating … calling egon on the phone … sitting in a car rushing
+through the night … standing in a random kitchen i had never seen before
+heating up lentil soup … looking at a gallery of paintings … standing in
+a courtyard smoking … waking up on a mattrace, still wearing jacket and
+shoes … egon snickering while asleep … neal yelling unspeakable things
+while sleeping … falling back into a long dark coma surrounded by
+patterns of colours and lights, whirling in a neverending carousel of
+white wine ethanole dreams…